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Jewellery & Metal (MA)

Xuan Ma

Xuan Ma is a London-based Chinese jewellery designer. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2019 with a Bachelor of Arts (honours) degree in Jewellery Design, she is currently continuing her studies at Royal College of Art in the Master’s Jewellery and Metal programme. Seeing contemporary jewellery as a platform for artistic expression, her BA graduation collection ‘Private View’ explored the human body, advocating for it to be combined into elements of jewellery. ‘Private View’ was nominated for the MullenLowe NOVA Awards and has won the Autor Magazine Prize 2019.  

To further explore her own approach culturally and critically, Xuan Ma chose to embark on a Master’s course at Royal College of Art using jewellery as a creative language to communicate her personal insights and design ideology to others. With her traditional Chinese background combined with a Western education, Xuan Ma explored the possibility of merging traditional craftsmanship and the understanding of contemporary jewellery design in her work. With this in mind, she developed her Master’s final project ‘New [Niú] Collection’, which is the result of a modern interpretation of jade, often recognized as a traditional material, to  represent the value of Chinese youth culture. She hopes to continue designing jewellery pieces that encourage society to reflect on culture and personal thought. 

Degree Details

School of Arts & Humanities

Jewellery & Metal (MA)
Xuan Ma

In Chinese culture, Jade, as most people know, is a traditional material with a positive connotation, which is normally designed in simple bracelet shapes or engraved with antique religious motifs. However, these traditional designs are not particularly popular within the younger generation, as they consider them ‘old-fashioned’ and incompatible with the youthful vibe of younger generations. But I believe the potential of this beautiful material is yet to be discovered and developed in a contemporary approach. Through research, I observed that instead of being averse to tradition, young people are discovering their own ways to embody and represent these values. Because of this, I plan to use jade as the symbol of tradition, combining and contrasting with contemporary attitudes of younger generations to create designs that represent the values of modern Chinese youth.  

During the development of the project, I realised that new ideas should not mean abandoning traditional meaning, as potent new ideas are often derived from traditional elements. Therefore, with the inspiration from language and expressions, I decided to use the ox as a symbolic element to begin developing. The ox had been an expression of hard work and honesty in Chinese traditional culture; however, across the generations, ‘niu’ mutated into an expression meaning ‘awesome’ and had the connotation of being boastful.  Nevertheless, these changes in meaning cannot be separated from its traditional meaning, and this inspired me to use the ox as a symbol to show the change in mindset in young people and combination of its elements with jade to represent the collision of ideas.  

Each element of the design represents different understandings of youth culture. For example, in farming, the nose ring is a device that controls how the ox works in the field: in this collection, it is a representation of how we are in a better position to control ourselves and make decisions independently. ‘Expression’ utilises the shape of the ox horn and plays the role of encouraging wearers to express their own feelings and personalities more explicitly. ‘Reminder’ is inspired by the legend that if one puts the tear of an ox into one’s eyes, one can see others’ souls. Therefore, this jewellery piece is intended to remind us of how other people may affect us in multiple ways. The internet is virtual, and we will never let the values revealed on it affect who we are, as being ourselves is the most important. The cowherd puts a bell on their cows to prevent them from getting hurt and as an amulet to grow healthily; for humans, we also use necklaces as our amulets. When we are lost or facing danger, the necklace gives us courage and seems to tell us that there is always someone looking out for us. ‘Amulet’ is inspired by this idea, and by the shape of ox bells. When the bell rings, the wearers will always feel the existence of someone they love, and the necklace will act as their amulet.  

I believe that we are never too old or too young to have a jade piece, as it gives wisdom to the old while providing calm to young people. ‘Take it, treasure it, and become part of its history.’

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The current young generation has received education that encourages them to express their own feelings and personalities more explicitly. Therefore, I utilize the shape of ox horn, which looks just like a speaker, to create this set of rings. The design of the rings with two directions is different. There is a design at the end of the outer horn that “connects” with the wearer -- to build an image that the wearer is talking to the audience. On the contrary, the direction of the end of the other ring and the horn are both facing to the wearer, like the wearer is talking to herself.


Medium:

Silver, Jade

Size:

50mmx50mm
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Love and goodwill from the family embolden the youth. Cowherd will put bells on cows to prevent them from getting hurt and as an amulet to grow healthily. For humans, we also wear amulets as a necklace: when we are lost or facing dangers, the necklace gives us courage and seems to tell us that there is always someone watching our backs. 

This necklace is inspired by this idea and the shape of ox bells. When the bell rings, the wearers will always feel the existence of someone they love, and the necklace will act as their amulet.

Medium:

Silver, Jade

Size:

40mmx100mm
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The Ox’s tear is considered a symbol of divinity. There is a legend which states, if you put ox’s tear on people’s eyes you can then see other people’s soul. With social media developing, we may need to create different images on the internet. What we need to do is to never forget who we really are, and always be sincere. This jewellery piece is to remind ourselves how other people may affect us in multiple ways. The internet is virtual, and we shall never let the values revealed on it affect who we are, as being ourselves is the most important. Transparent jades sliding down from eyes are just like tears. The "tears" clean our eyes, enable us to see our more authentic selves, and engage with more authentic emotions. The pliable Silver Wire can be well fixed on the nose, and the minimal design highlights the jade in the form of tears.

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In farming, the nose ring is a device that controls how the ox works in the field. But in modern society, it turns out to be a jewellery used for personal expressions. Sometimes we might be guided by old ways of thinking, a traditional mindset, just as the ox guided by the nose ring. But now we are in a better position to control ourselves and make decisions on our own. So, I made the nose ring like a cage as a metaphor of controlling. Meanwhile, I have put jades with multiple shapes and sizes into the nose ring in order to form a curving shape. The implication is that sometimes traditional thoughts will waver our thinking, but what’s important is to always keep firm in our own beliefs. There are multiple ways of wearing the nose ring. it could be either used as rings or earrings, and such multiple usages makes it more versatile and allows more freedom for personal arrangements.