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Menswear

Tae Choi

Born and raised in Seoul, South Korea, Tae came to the Royal College of Art after many years of experience in the fashion industry as a menswear designer.

Tae aims to expand the role of fashion designers, by way of various projects in which they can coexist through cooperation rather than competition, such as collective work and workshops.

During the journey at RCA, he has been exploring to decode his identity as an East Asian man through the juxtaposition of references based on his RCA dissertation named 'Shaping Korean Modern Masculinities'. That expands to ultimately instinctive fashion practice to deconstruct and reconstruct his cultural identity. 

Tae Choi

Decoding and abolishing Asian Stereotypes through fashion practice.

My work aims to redefine East Asian Modernity by exploring the idea of the self and individualism. I have translated my culture, legacy, and personal experience, and converted this into my own fashion language. The body of work exists firmly within the intersection of my experiences, as I exist between East Asian men, Model Minority, and Stranger. This challenges the narrative of this work, which takes a unique position on this intersection.

This work is based around the cultural legacy of Seoul, the city where I grew up - a society that appears homogeneous, but has elements of foreign cultural influence. Among this cultural mix, I have investigated the unique localisation of Korean American Tailoring, which was created by the tailor shops around US Army bases after the Korean War.

Through this process, I observed the interconnectedness of how individual identity evolves alongside the identity of garments or specific cultural clothing. Through my work, I hope to provide a new perspective on this relationship by tracing the evolution of iconic garments within my cultural context. In other words, reconstructing the imported cultural influences that arrived in Seoul from a different time period. My work puts these historic trends into a contemporary context, so for me, fashion design practice is like mixing and weaving these features. 

In terms of design and materials, I integrated conventional masculine associated materials such as Rigid Denim, Duck Canvas, Corduroy, Flight Nylon, Waxed Cotton, and Uniform Suiting fabric. I subtly mixed such materials in a different context to make familiar things look unfamiliar as a key element. As someone who appreciates classic and authentic garments, my collections are created with close attention to detail and quality. I reinterpreted the material construction of classic outfits to reimagine a contemporary yet timeless look. 

This art form is a means of discovering my personal voice. As a result of this subjectivity, my garment is open to various interpretations depending on who wears it, and in what context. I hope that a range of individual interpretations will come from engaging with my work. 

Ultimately, my work is a platform to express ideas surrounding fashion as a communicative tool for the exploration of contemporary East Asian modernity. Through this journey at RCA, I reimagine East Asian modern masculinity, inclusivity, and diversity, which is not ashamed of being quiet and modest. In this sense, this work is entirely my voice in its rawest form. 

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The varsity jacket is an archetype that graphically reveals the identity of one's background. So I would like to use this method to create that garment that represents my city where I grew up. I had a collaboration with a graphic design studio named 42MM from Korea. We made graphics for the Varsity Jacket together.

I found out he designed a typeface using city fragments which means we are sharing the same memory from this city, Seoul. I was using this graphic element to make this jacket. One of my favourite parts of this jacket is putting the Footnote which is influenced by my project on the bottom of the jacket.

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